Why do lcd displays fade

Every LCD varies in construction and size, so consult your manufacturer's documentation on how to remove any outer casing and, if necessary, the screen itself, when working with a laptop or computer monitor. Other components, such as a copper ground or an LCD controller board, may obstruct your path. Take careful note of these items and their proper locations, then gently move them out of the way until you can access the CCFL bulb.

The bulb may rest in its own slot, depending on the type of screen you're working with. On either end, gently remove the rubber caps from the old bulb and place them on the new bulb. A power cable should attach at one end and may require you to solder it in place. It should return to its former brightness. If a new bulb did not correct the problem, other hardware issues can cause the screen to dim. Take your display module apart once again and examine the power cord that attaches to the CCFL to ensure it attaches properly.

It should make contact with metal or a lead on the bulb itself and should not attach to the rubber caps which will prevent or dampen the flow of electricity to the bulb.

If this does not correct your problem, instead examine your LCD's power supply. When dealing with a TV or stand-alone monitor, this becomes vitally important. I squeezed it into the circuit board and the display worked great. To fix the issue, I placed a thin piece of plastic so that it would increase the pressure by a little bit, enough that the display is now perfect.

Do you think this method would work? Must be a chip that went bad, right? I came across to your channel by chance and wow, this may be the best find i made in a very long time! Amazing stuff, thanks for sharing! Thanks for your help….. I used alcohol and cleaned up the strips really good and it all works perfect. Thanks again…. I fixed the broken LCD display on my alarm clock by heating it with a hair dryer and then giving it few taps with my knuckles.

Completely restored now. Nice and very helpful video Tibi! Glad that You bought that quite rare lcd bleeding DW watch and repaired it!

Thanks again! I had a hacked ghost box with no numbers showing besides the very first one.. I like Z-axis tape also! It is conductive tape so you never have the problem anymore You can fix all those lcd screens with it.

Zaxis conductive tape is from 3M it is very expensive tough some people sell it at the length you need it on ebay. I wanted to ask where you can buy or download the manual you used in this viedo. Great tips Mr. Great and informative video. I just fixed or think i fixed my Casio ProTrek and then i noticed the display just looked like inversely burnt.

I took it all apart beofre and noticed the silver coating on the back of the LCD was faded just in the center is that something that can be fixed somehow? I make exactly what you show and… my Fluke 85 display return OK!!!! Thanks a lot!!!!!!! Hi there is another thing i want to ask is about the capacitors, i check the link you left but it says to choose the value if they offer lot it supouse they come diffrent values.

Please be patient w ith me i dont know about the first serie or something like that i mean i dont know the difference betwen and another ones, please explain me this. Until now i affraid to buy something for another devices. I dont have any usefull manual,because i also want some for casios vintage proteck and ciizen as well. Nice video. But where do you buy the lcd watch repair book? And the capacitors where do they buy?

If there are spots on the display, can it be repaired? Thanks Fabrizio. This is what helped me. Great job! I like it, Thanks you I can try repair my 3 vintage watches from my collection.

Many Thanks! Nice video! Wll explained. However, I have a different issue that bothers me. I have seiko a Can you help? Contact: [email protected] yahoo. Very comprehensive video! Digits on the screen are faded pretty badly plus the fact that the battery last 2 days only. Any advice? Or video how to disassemble? Thanks in advance! You can use a fiberglass mesh between the flat cable and the soldering iron at the temperature of degrees Celsius. So the fiber will prevent the flat cable from melting.

Sorry for my english. This was my first electronics repair nightmare when I was nine years old, the bloody flex cable broke on my Donkey Kong game and watch. I had begged my mum to buy me one for months till she finally relented for christmas.

The more I tried to fix it, the worse it became but I finally got there, only to have the flex crack a few months later and that was the end of my game. Great video! I have the problem of some of the LCD segments not showing parts of numbers on casio ae, similar lcd to this one. If you know, can you pl tell me ho to fix it?

Next time try replacing the capacitor with a higher value. I would also replace the smoothing capacitor as both would have equal aging issues. Good morning. I have a seiko MA with same problem. I try to find correct condensator. Do you have service manual or other?

Thanks so much. Hi Tibi i think i was send you a message here but m not sure so here we go again. I found many polarized films but almst all are for cell fones so is the same? Also one of them says active i imagin the active 3D lens. Anyway please let me know the one for watches i have many with bleeding screen and also faded digits.

How do you put in to lcd i mean do you use glue? Just replace it if it goes bad, intermittent connector problems can keep you busy for nothing. Should the rubber strips be cleaned aswell, as I believe they have contacts too that link contact from the circuit board to ones on the LCD…. I fix LCDs on radios and pagers all the time, I use a Hot bar attachment on a pen soldering iron and a silicone pad between the iron and the flex to keep the flex connection from melting.

It seems that humidity is what causes the glue on the flex to give up most the time. Or being around industrial cleaning products. From about once every other month too better than a year. I have one of these radios that I use for our tower crew which has yet to have the LCD fail.

The unit was built in and I picked it up used in I know we have put it through a lot of snow and rain while the tower crew is using it without the LCD flex bond giving out.

I remember soldering individual wires to a Ti calculator to replace the LCD flex cable. Was such a messy fix, but it worked! Hey Tibi, can you tell me: Do i have to use the same capacitor with identical Farad? I have this problem: A Citizen watch with temp-sensor works with all functions but the display fades out pulsing after some hours. For me, it looks like the upconverter does not produce as much Volts as the LCD needs. So i changed it. I measured the old with 90 nF. I replaced it with one that has nF, because i dont have one with exactly 90 nF.

The problem persists. Should i change it again with a capacitor of another value? I enjoyed your video. Thanks for posting. The problem I see is that you measured the capacitance and then replaced with exactly the same. Your result was just what I expected. If it was the capacitor, then the value you measured was the value after it drifted, not the value it was when it came out of the factory. The technique you used there will likely fix it for a long while. The same technique is used on the Nintendo Gameboy although using an iron rather than hot air.

You nearly always notice that the display gets much worse whilst doing the heating. Only when it cools down does it start to then behave normally and the lines pop back in one at a time. The problem will reoccur. I have to clean mine once every three years. Also, clean the strips as well as the contacts on the board, the alcohol will not harm the strips.

You can host your content anywhere, but your decision to promote them is pretty poor judgement in my view. Ugh, annoying things. It worked Thanks! Glad to have the display back on my 27 year old Fluke Most of these PCB to glass flex connectors use a thermal set conductive epoxy. In production the hot bar cures and sets the epoxy which is why the flex does not detach when the bar is removed.

The bad news is that once cured, it cannot be softened or re-flowed by heating again. I have personally had to clean and solder the Capton type flex cables on many LCD displays but this can only be done on the PCB side connection. Note that you can get new epoxy but it is expensive and has a very short shelf life even if refrigerated.

The flex in this video looks to be conductive paint so all bets are off. Nicely explained. How can I stick zebra connector with LCD? Thanks for the video. I have one question tho. The lcd screen had a film thay was brownish which i assume was the polarizing film but the glass had one in the front and on the back and i took both of them off with a knife and alchohol.

Behind the glass is another splastic piece whick i assume is kind of like a back light but i had a white film on it which has bubbled. If i put new polarizing film on the lcd screen could it work again? I was thinking since it had two i guess i need to put them at different angles from each other to let light trough? I told them to go screw off as that was more than I paid for the meter. Now I just un-clip the bezel, re-clip the bezel and off I go for another few months.

The very bottom of the display is blank. What I can find is big sheets self adhesive but for galaxy phones. They are very cheap but was wondering if they would work? Is a polarising filer just a polarising filter or are there many types.? BMW instrument clusters have the same problem with the same kind of hot bar attachment flex ribbon.

In the automotive industry we remove the ribbon and replace it with a new one. Try a centrifuge. The black spot is actually an air bubble inside the crystal liquid that can be pushed around.

The polarizer rotates the light and the liquid a 2nd time to pass the 2nd polarizer. Without liquid it is only rotated once and thus black.

Squeezing may break the rim seals epoxy glue? Because liquid is heavier than air, a centrifuge should push the bubble to the center of rotation. Hence different placement can move the bubble around without risk of breaking the seal or glass. What is it actually that is weared out? The problem is the carbon stripes fracture.

For examples, look up Mercedes Pixel Repair. Before placing the new polarized film you should remove the original one. The watch has it already from factory. I have seen two of the same monitor purchased at the same time, but one is used all of the time and the other is in sleep mode more the other.

The one used more and not in sleep mode much looks yellow-faded but the other one not used more is brighter by a lot.

Both use DVI-D and they have switched cables and card plug locations but they still are the same. One used more is yellowish, one not used more is not yellowish. For example, if you get two identical fluorescent tubes and run one for a few years and later compare it with the unused other, the unused one will be a fair bit brighter than the used one. If the back behind the fluorescent lights in the LCD monitor is plastic or card and has gone yellow from the tubes shining on it over time, this will likely explain the yellowish colour.

I would hope to see more replies too but I think your reply sounds to be very helpful and I appreciate the post. Have a good holiday. It makes sense that the CFL is fading over time, could also be a calibration issue. If you want more stability look into thew new LED back lite screens. Less space and heat but less years.